"Nothing is ever completely perfect and perfect is boring. Sometimes the big success is when a scent is imperfect. Some might say Angel [by Thierry Mugler] is too girlie. Others could say Chanel No 5 is outdated - but actually there's something about their disproportion that makes them memorable. It's all about the aesthetic and occasionally when the balance is off, it's good."
Spanish-born star perfumer Alberto Morillas talks about what makes winning scents, the intricasy and quality controls of natural raw materials for perfumery, his latest big fragrance launch for Valentino's new Valentina fragrance (review featured in the link), how specific ingredients create specific effects and how tastes haven't really changed that much over the years.
And why didn't he include rose in Valentina de Valentino, since it's a trademark motif of the fashion house? "Honestly, it's not easy to make roses 'young'," he shrugs. "It's a scent often associated with older ladies and jasmine is far younger. And although you do have roses in Italy, it's not really the essence of the country."
You can read the whole interview on this link at The National.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
This Month's Popular Posts on Perfume Shrine
-
In my previous post I elaborated on what constitutes art in perfumery and what criteria must apply for it to be defined as such. Some perfum...
-
There is a huge market of marketing all things French to Anglosaxons and in that respect the title of today's post is in part taken off ...
-
Andy Tauer, enfant gaté of the niche universe, and deservingly so, excells in three things in his fragrant sonatas: hesperidia, rose and res...
-
It's unusual in perfumery for the start of this century to encounter a modern composition which focuses on that loaded term which is dre...
-
How many times have you heard that line in one variation or another? Or are you one of the sufferers who feels like you're going to erup...
-
Hermès Barénia launched in fall 2024, exploring the contours of the fruity neo-chypre, the first of its kind at Hermès, but within in-ho...
Intereting interview! Thanks!
ReplyDeleteI will always thank Alberto Morillas for creating one of my favorite perfumes ever: Lancôme Miracle. Unfortunately, it was reformulated about two years ago (why?!), but I still have the "old" and I enjoy it a lot. It brings me wonderful memories.
Thanks very much indeed for the link.
ReplyDeleteIsa,
ReplyDeleteyeah, wasn't it?
Miracle is changed?? Why on earth? The pepper perhaps? (pity, it was what made it interesting)
Enjoy what you have of it!
D,
ReplyDeleteyou're welcome. He's a megalith in the market, it's always interesting to follow his thought process.
Yes, Miracle was changed, and now it lacks the strong peppery start. I think that ginger is much more muted too. However, I think now there is more musk. It is more boring, no doubt.
ReplyDeleteI own a full bottle of the old one like a treasure :)
Maybe Mr. Morillas could tell us why it was changed! LOL (kidding)
Isa,
ReplyDeleteI sure hope mr.Morillas might step in and say definitively, but I doubt it will happen.
Still, my money is on the IFRA regulations. Spicy stuff was off the list an amendment or two back.
They managed to declaw Opium, of all things, so how could Miracle stand any chance?
You are right. It must be because of the IFRA regulations. Lots of perfumes changed...
ReplyDelete