Thursday, February 15, 2018

Etat Libre d'Orange Une Amourette

One is prepped for interesting things, since Roland Mouret was intent on commissioning a perfume collaboration to the maverick French firm of Etat Libre d'Orange for some time, eyeing creative director Etienne de Swardt as a fellow pioneer.

Mouret consolidated his fashion imprint through the arc of several designs of his divising: the Galaxy dress, the Moon, Pigalle, Titanium, and others following those. To paraphrase Christian Dior, each and every one of them appears coming out of his perfume named Une Amourette and composed by refined craftswoman Daniela Andrier Roche; best known for her Prada opus, Andrier settled upon an illusory and deceptive contraption. Designs and dresses like that might look like they could be made by anyone, but actually entail high skills and imaginative powers.

In Une Amourette the patchouli is rendered in the modern "cleaned up" style (less of the animalic darkness and more of the minty, camphorous quality) that makes for an excellent folding material for the pepper-leather axis from one angle and for the neroli-iris (which comes across as starchy-tart) axis from the other. The balance is precarious, yet in typical Andrier style the effect in Etat Libre d'Orange's Une Amourette Roland Mouret is sublimely modern; clean, powerful, rather masculine in a cornucopia of ersatz fruit salads & cotton candy vats in the feminine fragrances aisle. It's a rather weird scent, nonetheless, that truly deserves its place amongst the sophisticated line-up of the Etat Libre d'Orange collection.

A fairy tale without a dragon; only cerebral and sensuous enjoyment.


  1. I own this scent and love it. However, I was chided by the owner of the company I work for when I wore it to work one day. I did not overspray and only did a couple of little sprites, but I was really put down for wearing it (although I cannot blame it on Amourette because I think most (not all) of the people I work with are anti-perfume of any kind let alone an edgy out of the ordinary wonderful scent like Amourette). The first time I wore it others also expressed their disdain. However, this past week, when I knew he (the owner of the company) would be away, I took liberty and wore it twice to work and somehow (I presume since he was not there) not one person complained about my fragrance! Go figure. Of course, some of those people would probably even complain about 4711 Cologne.

  2. My favorite of 2017. Gorgeous fragrance and very sexy.


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